Och! The places I went!
My trip to the Orkneys was amazing. We had fantastic weather. It rained for about 2 minutes. In seven days, in Scotland, that's superb. Our tour guide was also excellent! A plucky young thing named Kath, who told great faerie stories and was really keen on showing us beautiful little-known parts of the Highlands. Our van was really old and it was probably its last trip, so she christened it Rusty the Ruthless, a viking longship, and tied a plastic viking helmet to the front. So here's a summary of Rusty the Ruthless' daring adventures:
Day one: I meet Rusty at Inverness Bus Station, and we head to Carbisdale Castle Youth Hostel. I get an impression of my travelling companions. Lots of Aussies, up for drinking and flirting with boys in pubs, a sweet Spanish couple, a cool girl from Vermont, a quiet older man from the Netherlands, a boy from India, a bratty Vancouverite, and a mother and two daughters from New Jersey. Over the trip two of the Aussies dominate (i.e. are loudest) but everyone gets along.
Day two: Saw the Broch Cairn Liath. A Broch is the ruin of a tower or fort, and this one had a double wall with a staircase between. Headed to John O'Groats, the most northern part of Britain that you can reach by road, to catch a ferry to the Orkneys. The creation myth of the Orkneys is that they are the molars of the Stuart Worm. This gives you an impression of their gentle rolling shape. There are also no trees. The only 'forest' was planted during Victorian times. It is absolutely surreal to see stretches of green, and blue sky or Sea, dotted with grey houses and no trees. We stayed in St. Margaret's Hope, on South Ronaldsay.
On the island, we visited the Tomb of the Eagles. This is a Neolithic tomb dating back 5000 years. It was discovered by a local man, and ignored by the authorities for 20 years, until it reverted to being his property and he excavated it. He still gives the tour, and his daughters still run the museum. All are grey-haired and have what I suspect is the Scottish ancestor to Canadian English (they really do say 'aboot'). The Tomb of the Eagles, so named because of the large quantity of sea eagle talons found within, is entered via a narrow stone passage, with a wheeled platform provided if you don't want to crawl. Inside it's cool and dry, and just stacked stones making partitions, including a small cubby hole with a skull.
Day three: We saw dolphins!! Two big ones and a baby! We also went to the Orcadian 'mainland', the nice town of Kirkwall. On the way we stopped at the Italian Chapel, which was built by Italian prisoners of war out of concrete and driftwood. The pièce de resistance is a gorgeous fresco of the Virgin Mary over the alter.
This post is incomplete and several months late but I'm putting it up anyway.
